The trail to Machu Pichu

The Lares Trail - starting point 3100metres above sea level


The Lares Trek is a 3 day treck in the Andes, similar to the original and famous Inca trail that goes to Machu Pichu. Although it is not the well known "Inca Trail" that thousands of people flock to each year, the Lares trail is made up of other Inca trails used during the same historical period. We did the Lares trail as the Inca trail was booked out, and it turned out to be absolutely incredible.

Here is a snippet of Wes' Journal along the trek:

SUNDAY NIGHT
We arrived late the night before in a minibus down a very bumby, windy, scary declining dirt road. We were freezing cold. Once we arrived we realised how useful head torches were and wished we'd had them like Will, Tully and our tour leader Marco. Initially Claire, Marga, Caroline and I watched as they setup the tents. Eventually I dug out the mini torch and gave them a hand.

As soon as we could get in the tents I put on every layer I had, which was dual layer thermals and travel pants on the bottom, and thermals, tshirt, soft shell and hoodie on top with beanie and scarf. Claire wore everything she owned and also some more of my clothes - she was frozen.

We quickly abandoned the plan of bathing in hot springs that evening, as we were too cold.

Our campsite was by a noisy river in a valley. The tall mountains on either side made a spectacular scene sillouetted against the magnificant dome of stars. The southern cross and milky way were so clear. Marco pointed out the Lama to the left of the southern cross made from the shaddows of the milky way.

After unrolling our -10c rated cocoon sleeping bags (rented in Cusco) and lining them with our sleeping sheet, it was tea and bread time, by candle light.

We attemted reading but we got too cold in bed, so it was lights out and I copied Claire by leaving only my eyes and nose popping out of the drawstring of the sleeping bag.

MONDAY
We woke to "Good morning, Coca tea??" through the tent wall at precisely 8am. I had slept really well for probably 9 hours, and spent 10mins drinking the steaming coca tea in my cosy sleeping bag. By the time we had packed our 6kg duffel bag and day pack, breakfast was ready. Fried egg, bannana and bread with jam. The best brekky so far in Peru!

The sun was up and it was warming up quickly. Perfect for a pre hike soak in the hot springs around the corner. After about an hour and a half Tully and I realised that everyone else was out, dressed and waiting for us. The baths were amazing!

We began the hike behind a group of about 13 other people, including one old lady who quickly fell behind her group. Marco told us today was Training Day. Armed with our lightweight walking poles, we began the incline with relative ease. The air was quite thin, but the slow pace and frequent stops made it quite enjoyable. Along the way, our ever smiling guide Marco told us interesting facts about the local people and plants. In no time I was down to one layer, only my tshirt, as it was perfectly sunny conditions.

After a few hours we stopped at a clearing by the river for lunch. Our porters and horse men had taken an alternate route and beat us there. By the time we were there the lunch tent was set up and the chef was busy preparing our 3 course meal. Soup for starters, chicken and vegies for main, and hot drinks for dessert. It was quite a delicious affair!

We kept walking for a few hours, munching on the copious snacks we were provided along the way. Our pace was slow and steady and we were frequently overtaken by local peruvian men and women clad in traditional clothing and no shoes, running past us. All the locals would run everywhere, and we realised afterwards this was because they had to cover the most enormous distances on foot to get anywhere. Their lung capacities and fitness levels were remarkable.

As we made our way into our campsite that night in a local peruvian village, all the local children flocked to us. We were told never to give them candies as they would never be able to see dentists and so it was bad for their teeth.

Camp that night was in a field in town, and dinner was another 3 course meal prepared by our incredible chef. We never ate the same thing twice, meaning those horses and porters would carry enough food for 3 days for all 6 of us guests, the tour leader and themselves (3 porters and a chef). The packing and unpacking of all the equipment each day was amazing.

Temperatures dropped again that night, and again we rugged ourselves us and slept with only our eyes popping out of the sleeping bag.

TUESDAY
Today we walked for 10 hours and went over the Lares pass - reaching a staggering altitude of 4600 metres above sea level. It was challenging and Marga couldn't make it on foot and had to get on the donkey. The poor donkey!
(This is us at the top - 4600m)
The scenerary was spectacular with huge mountains towering over us as we slowly climbed the pass. We were the only ones in sight, with the odd local peruvian racing by to get to their little villages. It was peaceful and the peak of the pass was a great achievement.

Lunch was in tents in a clearing and equally as impressive as the day before.

After the pass it was all down hill from there which was a relief. We made our way to the final campsite with much jubilation, and exhaustion. Beers were obtained from one of the locals and we all had a little celebration.

MACHU PICHU


The next day we walked only 2 hours to meet the car that took us to the train that took us to Machu Pichu town. This was tourist central and quite unappealing. But it was a base for us to see Machu Pichu at first light the next morning.

We woke at 4am the next day and climbed the bus to Machu Pichu at dawn. That day there were transport strikes and so all trains to Machu Pichu town had ceased, meaning the only people going to see Machu Pichu was those already in town or walking in on the Inca Trail. That is, only 300 or so people, compared to the 2000 they get every day. We were absolutely spoilt as we felt like the only people there.

The sun started to rise as we walked in and it felt incredibly mysterious and magical. The ruins are perched on the side of a cliff and it is staggering to think how the Incas did it. We were both overwhelmed.

550 photos later and watching the run rise over the ruins, we did a tour. It was just amazing to be there and we were both suitably impressed with what was really the purpose of the trip to Peru.

Hopefully the photos give you an idea for just how special this place was.